Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these tales and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
